Set
the hook properly and you'll catch more fish.
By George Poveromo
Some anglers spend a
small fortune—and in some cases a large one—on the
best boat, electronics and tackle to catch that special
trophy fish. Yet they blow the opportunity to score
because they don't know how to set the hook effectively.
To bolster your hook-up ratio, you must use a tactic that
complements the fishing method, be it casting lures or
baits, trolling or bottom fishing. Once you understand the
mechanics and get the knack of setting a hook, very few
fish will be able to shake their way free—and that
includes the trophies.
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CASTING CALL: [1]
Point the horizontal rod at the bait. [2] Reel
tight to the fish. [3] Swing the rod 90 degrees to
set the hook.
Illustration: Pete Sucheski |
1. When casting
baits or lures for fish ranging from seatrout to
striped bass to dolphin, I point the tip of the rod at the
bait and hold the rod parallel to the surface of the
water. This rod position reduces the entry angle of the
fishing line to the water, allowing me to generate more
power when I strike. I get an even stronger hookset by
winding tight and horizontally sweeping the rod 90
degrees—from directly in front of me to off to my side.
This stroking move provides maximum leverage, compared to
rearing back on the rod vertically, high over my head.
If the hook should miss
the fish, the bait will remain in the water close to the
predator, where it may draw another strike. If I had
whipped the rod vertically over my head, I would have
risked launching the bait into the air—and out of the
strike zone. Of course, I sometimes hold the rod
vertically, such as when I'm working a topwater plug or
swimming a live bait at the surface. But, on the strike,
I'll wind tight to the fish and switch over to the
horizontal hookset.
To execute the strike
properly, keep the rod parallel to the water and wind
tight until the fish stops the spool and begins to take
line. At this point, slightly cup or thumb the reel spool
to generate additional drag for a split second or two, and
rear back on the rod to one side. Winding tight to the
fish and adding extra drag pressure lets me eliminate most
of the line stretch, practically guaranteeing a solid
hookset (see ÒLearn About Line Stretch,Ó on page 36).
But don't add too much
drag, which could break the line. Get a feel for the
process, which means knowing when you're close to breaking
the line, or if the fish is wallowing in place or about to
make a powerful run.
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TROLL GOAL: [1]
Point the rod at the bait. [2] Let the fish take
line. [3] Hold the rod at a 45-degree angle on the
hookset.
Illustration: Pete Sucheski |
2. Trolling presents
the most complicated hook-setting challenge for
several reasons. Generally, large amounts of line are
deployed while trolling, so stretch really comes into
play. The different striking habits of gamefish and the
forward momentum of the boat are also factors.
When I am
trolling—whether I am offshore targeting wahoo, tuna,
dolphin and billfish or seeking kings, grouper or snook
inshore—and I get a strike, I keep the boat at the same
heading and trolling speed for 30 seconds. The boat's
momentum helps take the stretch out of the line. Once the
hook is firmly set, I'll slow the boat for the fight.
Maintaining the trolling speed and direction keeps the
other baits in play, and that's when I'll often double or
triple up on schooling fish.
Should the rod arch over
on the strike and line begin racing from the reel, I'll
pick up the outfit and impart a series of short and quick
sweeps of the rod. In this case, I hold the rod at a
45-degree angle to the water. This angle yields more
leverage and will keep the bait in the action if the fish
drops it.
When dropping back to a
billfish or dolphin, I'll immediately point the rod at the
bait and free spool. Once I feel the fish take the bait,
I'll engage the drag and quickly wind the line tight. When
the fish races off, I set the hook. They often don't act
as though they have felt the point of the hook, instead
swimming off slowly and taking line or wallowing in place.
When this occurs, I'll wind tight to the fish and increase
drag pressure by either pressing the line between my thumb
and the rod's foregrip, or slightly advancing the lever
drag if I'm using a conventional reel. But I try to
remember to immediately back off this additional drag once
I sense the fish is about to take off.
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PULLING FOR YOU:
[1] Hold the rod steady. [2] Wind tight, and let
the fish pull the rod down. [3] Lift the rod and
set the hook.
Illustration: Pete Sucheski |
3. Bottom-fishing
hooksets can also be tricky. With the line nearly
vertical, shallower water offers less line stretch, but
setting the hook effectively between 50 and 200 feet
deep—where we do most of our bottom fishing—can pose a
challenge. Setting the hook gets progressively harder the
deeper you fish.
When soaking natural
baits for grouper and snapper or dropping metal jigs for
AJs or striped bass, I hold the rod parallel to the water
and take up just enough slack to feel the weight of my
bottom rig. When a fish eats, I try to refrain from
instinctively rearing back on the rod, instead letting the
fish pull the rod tip to the water. As this happens, I
quickly wind up line. I try to regain line as the fish
surges and pulls against the drag for several seconds to
take up much of the stretch. Then, I drive the hook home
with several short, vertical hooksets.
No matter what kind of
fish you pursue, you can probably adapt some of these
hook-setting tactics to meet your needs. Ultimately,
you'll land more and bigger fish as you understand—and
react to—the movements of the fish on the end of your
line.
Learn About Line
Stretch
Take this factor into account before tussling with trophy
fish.
When setting the hook,
consider the type of line on the reel. Nylon
monofilament, the most widely used fishing line,
both inshore and offshore, has inherent stretch—up
to 25 percent of its length. For example, it's quite
possible that 100 feet of the stretchiest mono will
stretch as much as 25 feet. This elasticity makes mono
more forgiving than today's stretch-free super braid—not
always bad because mono can absorb the sudden stress of
surging fish, keep the line from parting or prevent the
hook from ripping free. But line stretch can make
setting a hook difficult. The greater the
distance between you and the fish, the more line stretch
you'll have to overcome to plant a hook firmly.
— G.P.
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