Bottomfishing Techniques with Outriggers
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Bottomfishing tricks with offshore tactics |
by George Poveromo |
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Jeffries has taken muttons, grouper, mangroves, mackerel and barracuda while bottomfishing with outriggers. |
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Set for Success
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For outrigger bottomfishing, Jeffries fabricates a 4-foot-long leader of 30-pound fluorocarbon with a small barrel swivel at one end and an in-line 2/0, 2X-strong circle hook at the other. |
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Bottom Winners BASIC RIG Barrel swivel attached to 4 feet of 30-pound fluoro leader 2X-strong in-line circle hook, size 2/0 BAIT UP Hook live blue crab, both claws removed, through a point of the shell. Cut ballyhoo plug releases scent, and when properly rigged, conceals the hook. |
Before tying the swivel to the fishing line, he adds an egg sinker just heavy enough to hold bottom. This is his preferred ballyhoo plug and live-bait setup. The sinker holds the bait on bottom and, should a fish tug at the bait, the excess line slides through it. It’s a more stealthlike presentation compared to a knocker rig (sinker riding on a hook) where a fish may sense or feel the weight. Beyond the Patches I plan on expanding upon Jeffries’ patch-reef outrigger tactics for my deeper-water bottomfishing. For instance, when yellowtailing at anchor in 60 to 90 feet of water, I could see merit in sending down a weighted bait — a ballyhoo plug, fresh whole or sectioned goggle-eye, or even a live bait — and placing that rod in a holder just aft of midship and running that line up the outrigger clip. As that line awaits a strike, we can continue yellowtailing in our typical fashion, straight behind the boat and with no extra rod in our way. Providing that the wind aligns with the current, the outrigger bottom baits should lie out evenly just beyond the transom. Our yellowtail lines will be well beyond and above those bottom lines, and even any knocker rigs we pitch into the chum slick. In essence, and as Jeffries explained, two additional rods will be working for us, without additional anglers or any interference. Even while drifting over broken bottom or reefs, provided the boat is a center console and lying broadside, anglers can jig or spot-soak baits off the down-current side. Then an extra outfit can be fished off that outrigger simply by adding a bit more weight to hold it near bottom during the drift. A live bait rigged through the nostrils — so it swims with the boat — and even a fresh ballyhoo impaled on a heavy, deep jig are deadly alternatives. Power drifting takes on a similar presentation: Anglers lower baits off the transom to rocks or a wreck while at least one rigger bait covers the area under the boat and aft of the anglers. |
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More in the Spread Outriggers help put additional baits on the bottom. Fine-tuning the release-clip setting is crucial. Do not overtighten; an excessively weighted line, along with a solid strike, may prove overbearing for an outrigger pole. The clip setting should be taut enough to hold the bait on bottom yet light enough so it releases easily on a solid pickup. The trick here is to cast or lower the rig assigned to the outrigger, then attach that line to the release clip; this way, the weight will rest on bottom where it’s not prone to tripping the clip. With the bait on bottom, free-spool the reel as you advance the halyard with the release clip up the outrigger; doing so with the bail closed could trip the release clip. Then advance the drag and wind in most of the slack. Allow the line to slide back and forth on the clip. Place the rod in a holder and watch the line. A windward line may eventually cross into your fishing space behind the transom. In this case, reset the rigger line. The downwind line usually remains in an ideal spot because it stays well away from the active angling at the transom. Because the outrigger bottom baits aren’t monitored as efficiently as the ones you’re physically fishing, check them every 10 to 15 minutes or so. Fishing on credit is never a good idea. |